On the summit of an active volcano on the island of Flores, there are three lakes sitting in three separate craters — so close to each other that you can see all of them from a single viewpoint. They should look identical. Same altitude, same geology, same rainfall, same volcanic activity beneath them. They don’t […]
The Pirate Kings: How the Srivijaya Empire Ruled the Strait of Malacca There is a passage of water between Sumatra and the Malay Peninsula that is, by most measures, the most important stretch of ocean in the world. At its narrowest point, the Strait of Malacca is 65 kilometers wide. Through it passes roughly 40
How Srivijaya Ruled the Strait of Malacca Read More »
Every city has a dish that is more than food. In Palembang, that dish is pempek — a fish cake made from ground fish and tapioca, fried or boiled, then drowned in a dark, sour, barely-sweet vinegar sauce called cuko. It is sold on almost every street corner. It is eaten for breakfast, lunch, dinner,
Pempek: The Ancient Fish Cake That Tells Palembang’s Entire History Read More »
The call to prayer echoes across the Musi River five times a day in Palembang. Women in hijabs fill the morning markets. The Grand Mosque dominates the skyline. Now look down. Somewhere beneath the asphalt and the centuries of a living city lie the remains of the most powerful Buddhist empire Southeast Asia has ever
How the Srivijaya Empire Became Islamic — Without a Single Battle Read More »
There is a dagger sitting in a wooden box in a house in Central Java right now. It has a name. It has a personality. It has dietary preferences — certain foods are placed near it during specific nights of the Javanese calendar. The family that owns it consults it before making major decisions. When
The Real Story Behind the Kris Dagger: Why Indonesians Believe Their Weapons Are Alive Read More »
Here is what we know about the greatest empire Southeast Asia has ever produced: At its peak, it controlled every major sea lane between China and India. Its navy was the most feared in the eastern ocean. Its capital was a city of such wealth that Arab traders wrote about it in stunned disbelief —
The Lost Kingdom of Srivijaya: Where Did Indonesia’s Greatest Empire Disappear? Read More »
The Wood That’s Worth More Than Gold You’ve probably heard of oud — that deep, smoky, resinous fragrance found in high-end perfumes from Dior, Tom Ford, and Middle Eastern luxury houses. What you might not know is that oud comes from agarwood, and some of the world’s finest agarwood comes from the forests of Borneo,
Why Indonesians Use Agarwood in Traditional Ceremonies (It’s Not About the Price Tag) Read More »
Lombok’s Best-Kept Luxury Secret Few tourists realize that the shimmering South Sea pearls sold in high-end jewelry stores in Paris, Tokyo, and New York very likely started their journey in a modest floating farm off the coast of Lombok, Indonesia. Lombok — and its surrounding waters near Sumbawa — produces some of the finest South
The Coffee Culture Gap Nobody Talks About Here’s something most travel blogs won’t tell you: the vast majority of Indonesians have never tasted Kopi Luwak — and many of them find the whole concept a little strange. Indonesia is the fourth-largest coffee producer in the world. Coffee runs through the veins of daily life here,
